A Brief History of the Corset

The use of corsets has always been a source of contentious debate throughout history, whether it regarded the extremities or possible health problems. It has been a hot topic for centuries. In the 21st century, corsets have regained popularity with many. Especially amongst vintage styled communities, burlesque stars and fashion icons. Endorsed by many, corsets have made their way into the mainstream fashion industry. In this post, I will provide a brief look at the garment's history.

The etymology of the word 'corset' derived from the Old French word 'corps' and from 'corpus' which is Latin for the body. The term corset was used from the late 14th century. Previously to this, it was often called 'stays' which was in circulation in England up until then.

Antiquity shows us some of the first instances in which the corset was used. One of which came from Crete. A Cretan figurine described as the 'snake goddess sculpture' shows us this. It was found in a palace in Knossos (the largest Bronze Age archeological site on Crete). The figurine has been dated to c. 1600 BCE and shows a garment which was called 'apodemos'. It has been said that the making of the apodemos was very similar to what we call the corset. Even though there are many similarities, it is shown as an outer garment which exposes the top half of the body. There is other evidence among the ancient world, shown especially in the tribes of the Caucasus. These garments were used to ensure modesty, but also to show the beauty of the woman. These women wore their garments from childhood until their wedding night (quite an astonishing length of time). There has also been evidence of not only women-wearers, but also men.

Italy certainly holds some of the corsets origins. It was primarily introduced by Catherine de' Medici who implemented them in France by the 1500s. She did this by banning her ladies-in-waiting of having waists larger than 13 inches! The corset was to visually elongate the woman, and be tighter than usual to enhance their shape. It was designed to be worn underneath formal court dress, and many of the French court embraced this new design. By the 16th century, corset-wearers were more likely to be perceived as wealthy. Interestingly enough, the tight-lacing frenzy did not take place until later centuries. Tight-lacing is just as it sounds! It could not have been possible during Catherine's reign, as the majority of corsets were hand-sewn. This would have put too much strain on the garment and ruined it.

Catherine de Medici profile:

Catherine de' Medici (1519-1589) was the Queen of France and the wife of King Henry II (Henri d'Oreleans). She was an Italian noblewoman, and reigned France from 1547 until 1559. She exerted significant political and cultural influence over France during this period. After her reign ended, she ruled as a regent for her son Charles IX (1560-1563). Regent meaning a person appointed to govern a state as the monarch is a minor, absent of incapacitated. In Catherine's case, King Charles IX was only ten years old.

As previously mentioned, there has always been controversy. Jean-Jacques Rousseau denounced the practice of corsetry (which many people agreed with). He believed that the modification was wrong, and natural would be best. The corset question became exacerbated by women defying to be restricted by their own clothing. One famous lady being Mary Queen of Scots who refused to wear one! There has been plenty of medical criticism of corsetry throughout history, with many doctors rallying against it labelling the practice 'extremely harmful'.

Jean-Jacques Rousseau profile:

Jacques Rosseau (1712-1778) was a Genevan philosopher, writer and composer. His political philosophy influenced the Enlightenment throughout Europe. But also, his influence spread throughout the French revolution and helped the development of modern political thought. He was a profound character, hearing his denouement of corsets made many people question the practice.

(1874) Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward wrote: 'Burn up the corsets!... no, nor do you save the whalebones, you will never need whalebones again. Make a bonfire of the cruel steels that have lordied it over your throax and abdomens for so many years and heave a sigh of relief, for your emancipation I assure you, from this moment has begun' (Osgood, 1973)

At it's height, Victorian England indisputably loved corsets. The most fashionable silhouette of 1827-1901 was an hourglass figure featuring a TINY waist. 118 years later, society and media project very similar ideals for the female body. During this period, tight-lacing was at it's height (between 1840-50s). Previous to this era, many corsets were hand-made and therefore delicate. However, with the rise of factories due to the industrial revolution, mass-marketed corsets were being produced. They were sturdier, and there-fore, allowed tight-lacing.

Heading into the first world war left the United States with a plea to women. In 1917, the U.S. War Industries Board pleaded women to stop buying corsets. If they did this, it would allow metal to be used for war production, not for corsetry. This singular step saved 28,000 tons of metal and has been said to have built two battleships! (Phelps, 2010).

I think corsetry is a fascinating subject. For centuries, this garment quite literally restricted and controlled women. Beauty and glamour came with this practice, but so did the limitations of sitting down. It has a very interesting cultural history.

Corsets are obviously physically restrictive, but I believed they could have also been mentally. Especially in Victorian England, the practice of corsetry was absolutely expected and demanded. God forbid, it would be a scandal if a woman was without! I believe it was quite literally a tool to limit women. However, this is not the case in the 2019. It is interesting how relationships with items such as these change over time...

(Please note: this is by far the briefest account of corsetry! If you are interested in more history, there are some brilliant works online!)

Thank you again!